Nancy Silverton Gives "5 Nods" to Tartine Bakery's Sesame Loaf

For only the third time in 2014, Nancy Silverton has awarded the coveted Five Nods to a food item.

The silent declaration came Monday afternoon in San Francisco when she grabbed a steam-emitting sesame loaf at Tartine Bakery, took an intense sniff comparable to Tony Montana's right before the his "Say hello to my little friend" line, then took a bite. Her eyes closed. Seconds later, the silent nods began.

As a small group of privileged onlookers watched - actually only one, me - the nods mounted . At three well-paced, deliberate nods, as more steam rose from the remaining loaf of bread, there was absolute stillness in the bakery. Then the fourth nod came, and with it, the anticipation that magic was in the air.  Sandy Koufax was walking to the mound for the 9th inning, September 9, 1965. It was two strikes on Harvey Kuenn. "It is 9:46 p.m.," said Vin Scully. 

Nancy Silverton took another delicate chew. And she nods. Five nods!

To confirm it, I ask her "Five nods?" . She nodded.

The bread baker that memorable day at Tartine was Nick Beitcher. When he saw that particular, now-famous loaf of Sesame, he reportedly said "Awesome. Gonna be a good bake today." 

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The other Five Nods were awarded to the .French butter, Beurre de Baratte of Rodolph de Meunier, and the storied Salty Peanut Butter gelato at Pizzeria Mozza Newport Beach.

Warning - The photo below is NOT of the sesame loaf, but rather Tartine's  superb country loaf. Sesame was long gone by the time a camera came out. As for the country loaf, no rating was given as it was for Lissa Doumani who, with her husband, chef Hiro Sone, is opening a restaurant nearby on Valencia Street and 17th Street this summer. Doumani refused my repeated requests to tear off a chunk. To emphasize her stalwart position. Doumani, recklessly driving a large army green SUV, nearly ran over a homeless woman on Mission Street and Capp Street . At that juncture, I  quit asking   

A older photo of Sesame is seen below the Country bread

2nd Warning - Do not attempt to eat the sesame loaf with the butter of Rodolphe de Meunier. 

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http://www.tartinebakery.com/  

The bread is available after 4:30 p.m..

600 Guerrero Street San Francisco, CA 94110 (MAP) . 415 487 2600 Hours: Monday 8-7 | Tuesday, Wednesday 730-7 | Thursday, Friday 730-8 | Saturday 8-8 | Sunday 9-8

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Vin Scully's call of Koufax perfect game - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJdli-ONL-8

Nancy and Vinny Eng with the Country loaf. Sesame was gone. 

Nancy and Vinny Eng with the Country loaf. Sesame was gone. 










Baby, It's Cold Outside; Michael Chiarello Rescues a Couple

"Call him."

"No."

"Just call him and tell him where we are."

Where we were was on the San Francisco waterfront outside of Coqueta, Michael Chiarello's Spanish restaurant near the Ferry Building.  

Moments before, a hostess had told us the dining room was completely booked, however we could eat in the separate bar area. But, that bar was packed like a midnight Muni train heading to Castro Street. Then, I spotted an empty table outside on the Embarcadero sidewalk. Could we eat out there? A server gave me a "Dude, you really must be hungry " look, but said "Yes, but it's cold outside." 

So we sat outside and ordered wine and three appetizers. The wind chilled us and reminded me of all the home runs its grandfather had cost Willie Mays at Candlestick Park.

That's when I started in urging Nancy to call MIchael Chiarello. But, she wouldn't. And I admire her for that. I doubt there's a revered chef in the country who would not call a friend to get them a table in this situation. But, Nancy's concern was for the customers. Thing was, these people weren't even her customers.

"It's busy. And I'm not going to bump anyone who has been waiting to get a table. I'm not going to take cuts."

The wine arrived. The wind blew harder. I reached for my phone to text Lindsey Tusk that we'd be heading to her restaurant Cotogna soon.

Then, a man hurriedly exited the sidewalk. heading for the Embarcadero sidewalk. It was Michael Chiarello. He saw us, came to an abrupt stop, stared for two seconds and, in borderline disbelief, and said "Really?"

I have never heard a better "Really?" in my life. And then he said it he said it twice more. "Really? Really", each time the incredulous level rising..

"I was just urging Nancy to call you," I said..

"Nancy, you wouldn't stand for me sitting outside your restaurant. Come on inside." He commandeered a server and told her to set us up in the restaurant. We followed Michael inside. There's a difference between taking cuts and getting them.

In 60 seconds, we were ensconced in, Coqueta. I had a view of Nancy with a small window behind her framing the lighted San Francisco Bay. Yeah, I had a view.

The food started coming: Sunny side-up egg with shrimp, crispy potato and chorizo dressing; crusty bread with tomato and jamon serrano; bite size skewers called pintxos; pork and duck meatballs. sliced rib eye. It was all very good.

Yet, as good as it was, it was secondary to my view. I'll never forget that view. Really. 

Baby, it's warm inside 

Baby, it's warm inside

 

Nancy with the knight of the night

Nancy with the knight of the night

A Gang Reporter Reveals A Sweetness For Roses

"War of the Roses" -Sunday L.A. Times Magazine, June 14, 1998

I committed a burglary recently.

On a spring midnight, I parked my Ford pickup truck on a quiet street in Garden Grove and surveyed the neighborhood. Heart pounding, I grabbed my burglary tool and walked toward the front door of the house on Richmond Avenue.

I'll admit I wasn't the coolest thief in town--certainly not a Cary Grant. After all, I hadn't burgled in the nearly 30 years since my cousins Dave, Jeff and Richard and I broke into Uncle Popkin's house in Eagle Rock to steal shish kebab. Neighbors called the police and soon a cop chopper whirled above the hilly neighborhood searching for us--successfully. The cops let us go. Our parents weren't so kind.

But failure be damned; at age 43 I was compelled to strike again.

Just as I neared the treasures, the security lights of the beige-and-blue four-bedroom house blew my cover. No greater spotlight ever shone on any performer on Broadway or any convict scaling the wall at Folsom. I felt the eyes of the world--or at least Orange County--upon me. How could I have been so careless to forget the security lights? I had installed them myself five years ago for my former girlfriend, Carol.

But I had crossed the Rubicon. I took the tool of choice, a Swiss-made Felco hand pruner, and went to work.

Snip. Snip. Snip.

Better go. Don't push it. The cops could be on their way--and how would I explain this midnight foray on a home that Carol has rented to strangers for the past two years? I quicklyran/walked back to the truck and escaped into the night.

Two blocks away, I turned on the interior light and admired my loot. Tiffany. Paradise. Double Delight. Three breathtakingly beautiful roses.

I don't know what the courts would have ruled had I been caught. But perhaps they might have been sympathetic; I had planted these roses.

From 1989 to 1994, roses, along with dining at the world's best French restaurants, were Carol's and my No. 1 hobby. And while dinner at the Girardet restaurant in Crissier, Switzerland, and Joel Robuchon in Paris set me back a sumptuous grand, one good rosebush cost a sawbuck and, with proper care, will outlive me.

I planted 33 roses at Carol's house. At my Dad's home in Gardena, where I usually was when I wasn't at Carol's, I planted 28.

We joined the American Rose Society. We entered the Pasadena Rose Show in 1993, winning three second-place red ribbons (for Paradise, Brandy and Color Magic).

Then, after nearly six years together, Carol and I broke up. There was no court settlement. She would get custody of the roses. I would get nothing. Not even visitation rights.

Until recently, I lived in Los Feliz Village, where I had rented a small bungalow with a yard--actually a flower bed. Well, it was more like a flower cot. I had one rose in the ground, First Prize, a two-toned pink rose with little fragrance but blooms as big as dinner plates.

In a round wooden container, I raised a vermilion hybrid tea called Granada. I positioned the pot near the entrance to my place. When someone asked me about my dwelling, I sometimes said, "I can look out my front door and see Granada."

Most people are surprised when I tell them I'm into roses in such a big way. They think I'm kidding when I say I'm a member of the American Rose Society. I have to pull out my tattered card to prove it. (It's the only society I've ever belonged to.)

But I guess I can see their point. I don't come off as the typical rosarian.

I've been a street reporter covering South-Central and Watts. I've gone to housing projects late at night and sipped Olde English 800 with the homeboys. I know guys named Big Evil, Mad Dog and Snipe. I wear a lot of dark clothing. I have a couple of scars on my forehead from disastrous street battles in the '80s.

I may act like a tough guy sometimes, but if someone showed me a Double Delight in the middle of a street fight, I might stop and stare for a few seconds. God forbid any of the fellas should read this.

My mother was named Rose, and two years after she died, I started buying them. Her name helped, but I just happen to like the look of a good garden rose. I like the variety, the different names. I like working in the garden and feeding them. I like that they grow as well on Grape Street in Watts as they do on Mapleton Drive in Holmby HIlls. And I like putting the cut flowers in an old Chateau Cheval Blanc bottle, knowing I drank the wine and grew the roses.

I keep my pruners in the car, but not for purposes of theft. I have been known, while waiting for someone--anyone--to wander into a stranger's yard and prune a rosebush that hasn't been cared for since D-day. I've knocked on doors and explained the situation: "Excuse me, I'm just waiting for a friend, and I saw your rosebush could use a little pruning. Would you mind if I clipped it a bit? No charge."

Some people look at me as if I'm a serial killer. Others emerge to discuss their garden; some are ashamed and promise to take better care of their Mister Lincoln (a classic red with fragrance) or Pristine (a delicate off-white tinged with pink, sporting a high center).

The single most stunning rose I've ever grown was a Chicago Peace. I cut the flower, a more deeply colored relative of the world-famous Peace, and gave it to my sister, Jeanine. I must have looked at that rose 70 times and every time I did it made me feel almost spiritual.

I felt the same way as I drove away from Carol's house, gazing at Double Delight, a creamy white flower whose petals are thickly bordered in a brilliant red and whose fragrance is as dreamy as a bouquet of sweet peas. I don't understand guys who try to impress dolls with a dozen red roses from a florist. One Double Delight will do the trick--if the trick can be done.

Technically, I suppose, my raid at Carol's house was a burglary. But, now that I think about it, I'd have to say it was a different kind of crime. In a burglary, you take objects, not living things. No, this was more like a kidnapping.

Michael Krikorian covered South-Central Los Angeles and Watts for The Times.

Double Delight, my second favorite Rose, after my mom. 

Double Delight, my second favorite Rose, after my mom. 

BREAKING NEWS Chef Dominique Crenn Wanted By Police, Flees to France

Renowned San Francisco chef Dominique Crenn has fled the country after learning federal, state and local law enforcement agencies issued a warrant for her arrest Sunday following a shocking incident at the inaugural "All-Star Chef Classic" in downtown Los Angeles.

Crenn, the first female chef in the United States to be awarded two Michelin stars and the subject of a current episode of Netfilx's "Chef's Table", stunned the audience at "Restaurant Stadium" during a cooking challenge between chefs Josiah Citrin and Jennifer Jasinski when she "assaulted a fish," according to law enforcement sources and several eyewitnesses.

The fish,  a suzuki, aka wild Japanese bass, was Citrin's and he was outraged.

"That dumb ass bitch from San Francisco fucked up my dish," said a visible upset Citrin, the chef owner of Melisse in Santa Monica.  

Saturday night, Citrin was immersed in final stages of an intense cook off against Denver's Jasinski when the drama unfolded near L.A. Live. Standing stage right, Crenn grabbed a container of a green vegetable sauce, crept up behind Citrin and just before his dish was to be judged, dumped the entire container onto the suzuki. The fish was ruined instantaneously..

Stunned, Citirn reached for a chef's knife, but was restrained by John Mason, a retired U.S. Army Delta Force commando hired as the event's chief security officer. After several seconds of silence, the dumbfounded audience headed for the exits. Several people were heard saying "Did I really just see that?"  Event organizer, Lucy Lean, began weeping and muttered, "The French."

The alleged assault on the fish was not the only thuggish behavior Crenn exhibited Saturday. At the JW Marriott Hotel bar earlier, she incessantly bullied Nancy Silverton's assistant, Little Michelle Francis, into giving up her prescription eye glasses because, she said, "They look good on me.".

Later at Chi Spacca di Mozza, Crenn unleashed even more outlaw characteristics After a woman asked gang reporter Michael Krikorian "Are you Nancy Silverton's father?" Crenn, a striking and poetic chef from Versailles, threatened to "take that stupid woman out in the alley and beat the shit out of her." Silverton's assistant Little Michelle, clearly under Crenn's influence by now, offered to help.

Sunday morning, as he prepared for the finale of the All-Star Chef Classic, Citrin was still fuming. "They should change her name from Dominique to Domi-Nut," said Citrin, who, like Crenn, has two Michelin stars. "To top it off, I made that fuckin' sauce," 

Using satellite data, Interpol reported Crenn had landed Sunday evening in Paris and may be heading to Brittany where her mother lives.

"She'll probably try to hide out at her mother's and hope the French do not extradite her back to America to face charges," said LAPD detective Sal LaBarbera. "They bring her back here and she's toast. French toast."

UPDATE : France's Central Directorate of Interior Intelligence has reported a woman fitting Crenn's description was spotted in Mont St. Michel wearing a chef jacket with the inscription "Lucy Lean".  

BREAKING NEWS - Fugitive Crenn Named "Best Female Chef in the World"   Check it -  http://www.krikorianwrites.com/blog/2016/4/28/fugitive-dominique-crenn-awarded-best-woman-chef-in-the-world-fbi-names-elizabeth-falkner-as-person-of-interest

Dominique Crenn with her new glasses.

Dominique Crenn with her new glasses.

Josiah Citrin and Dominique Crenn in happier times.

Josiah Citrin and Dominique Crenn in happier times.

Ugly Drum Pop Ups; Looking Back 10 Years Ago

March 22, 2024

Ten years ago, the now-classic Los Angeles barbecue Ugly Drum hosted a series of "pop ups" to help promote Eric Black and his extraordinary garage-to-table smoked meats. Today, fans of the wildly popular restaurants - there 13 in four states - find it hard to believe Black had to cajole established restaurateurs to let him host a night where he and partner Joe Marcos could showcase their succulent pastrami, ribs, brisket and hot links. 

I was in line last night at the Ugly Drum flagship in Watts telling this lady about an Eric Black pop-up I went to at Mendocino Farms, Gilmore Station one evening back in 2014. The woman said "Wow, It musta been like seeing Miles Davis jam at a bar when he was a teenager in East St. Louis." I said "Not quite."

Still, it was delicious and I remember it like it was only a few days ago. I sat across from mega chef Chris Feldmeier who had yet to open any of his "Fried Meier's Bird" joints, which are now in 45 states. Feldmeier took two bites of a smoked hot link a decade ago and declared it "perfect".

Seated to my right that night was current New Yorker film critic Robert Abele who called the links "Outstanding". On the ride home, my date that night, former restaurant owner now celebrity game show host Nancy Silverton, called the links "terrific". Me, I'm thinking these links have been called "perfect", "outstanding" and "terrific" in one night.  That's a good night for any dish, let alone a link.

After I recalled this to the lady last night, she asked me if Ugly Drum had any other pops up during in 2014. 

"Yeah," I told her. "They had a series of lunches at Mendocino Farms around town in late March and April that year highlighting their superb pecan wood smoked pastrami sandwich with creamy apple slaw, baby swiss and Carolina moppin' mustard sauce on deli rye.." 

"Wow, you remember those events? That was 10 years ago."

"Yes. Barbecue that good, I can't forget. I kinda miss those days. I wish I could go back in time and go to an Ugly Drum pop up." 

*** For more Ugly Drum updates check https://www.facebook.com/uglydrum or twitter @uglydrum

Ugly Drum link and pastrami 

Ugly Drum link and pastrami 







.

Salt & Straw Ice Cream's Suspicious Delivery Disrupts Mozza Service

Service was temporarily disrupted at the legendary Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles this afternoon when six pints of the Portland-based Salt & Straw ice cream were delivered to the pastry kitchen causing the owner, head chef and general manager to abandoned their customers to savor the frozen goodness.

Kim Malek, who owns Salt & Straw with her cousin Tyler, came to the pizzeria Sunday for the first time and was given a brief tour of the pastry department where she exchanged pleasantries with pastry sous Carrie and pastry's Sean, who is seen in the photo eating ice cream with a rather guilty look..

The six pint delivery was at first greeted as a "cool thank you" from Malek to the staff.  However, suspecting foul play, Krikorian Writes obtained and reviewed the restaurant's Sunday security tape and it clearly showed Malek snapping at least a dozen spy photos of the kitchen. No charges have been filed, but the "gift" of the six pints today may be her attempt to makeup for the kitchen spy photos, a felony in California.

As for the service at the pizzeria, it was eventually restored, but not before baffling some customers  

"I walked into the pizzeria and I was like 'Where is everybody?'" said long time loyal customer Lonnie Bishop, the Prince of Pumps. "No Nancy. No Arielle, No Go Go.  Thank god Eva was there." 

Shortly after service was restored, GM Arielle Chernin debuted a new dessert menu which now features several ice cream flavors including double fold singing dog vanilla, Stumptown coffee and bourbon, sea salt with caramel ribbons, woodblock chocolate, pots of gold & rainbows, and Grandma Malek's almond brittle with chocolate ganache.

Nancy, Go Go, Arielle and Sean eating something clearly meant for me.

Nancy, Go Go, Arielle and Sean eating something clearly meant for me.


Dozen of Degrees of Separation, Why David Rosoff Left Mozza

12. Realized he could make more  money and work fewer hours if he just robbed Doug Zamensky once a week.

11, Going to work for the @funwithkate twitter account as Kate Green's assistant.

10. Took a job with the Israeli government as Benny Netanyahu's personal poison taster. 

9. Didn't quit, was actually fired by Adriel "AD" Lopez for being too mellow during service 

8.  Tired of getting into easy-to-win fist fights with Osteria dishwashers.

7.  Felt slighted Lance would only hold his reserved table for two at the pizzeria for 15 minutes and 22 seconds.

6.  Depressed that months of planning a takeover robbery with Tony never materialized.

5.  Needed to relax more, so moving to Ghouta, Syria with Lyanka.

4.  No longer needs any more money after selling off his case of 1461 Chateau Latour he got from Rudy

3. Was never given an opportunity by Dahlia to showcase his baking skills.

2. Decided to open a Malt Liquor Bar next to Hawkins House of Burgers in Watts with Chris and Duke.

1.  Felt that after 8 years of employment Nancy should have at least known his first name.

Former Osteria Mozza General Manager on a typical night at Highland and Melrose. Sounds strange to see the word "Former", such a integral cog of Mozza was he. 

Former Osteria Mozza General Manager on a typical night at Highland and Melrose. Sounds strange to see the word "Former", such a integral cog of Mozza was he. 




Zamensky Becomes First Human Robbed By Three Species

When a red-tailed hawk mugged Orange County Pizzeria Mozza manager Doug Zamensky recently, authorities initially thought it was just another robbery in Newport Beach where rampant crime is an accepted way of life. However, when a detective started digging, she discovered this was no ordinary robbery for it marked the first time in the history of mankind that a human being had been robbed by three different species.

"I knew Zamansky had been robbed by humans before, Grape, Rollin 60s, and I think 18, but what i didn't know was that as a youth in Idaho he had been robbed and briefly kidnapped by a pair of jackals," said Orange County Sheriff's investigator Marissa LaBarbera. "It appears Zamensky is known throughout the predatory animal kingdom."

For his part, Zamensky tried to play off a TMZ-leaked security camera frame of the robbery-in-progress (seen below) as being "Staged in the den of an Emmy-winning producer. Not a big deal really."

Sadly, a source close to the investigation said Zamensky was forced at beak point to dress up as a penguin and take orders from the hawk, an alleged bird shot caller for the Family Swan Bloods. Zamensky's hands were so damaged in the assault that even the hawk took pity and wrapped them in large brown bandages, as clearly seen in the photo. Zamensky is said to be resting comfortably at Hoag Hospital in the psychiatric ward.  

Doug Zamansky shortly before he was rescued by Yosemite Fish and Game Commandos

Doug Zamansky shortly before he was rescued by Yosemite Fish and Game Commandos




  


Silverton Irked by Reichl, Tells Her to Leave Van Ness Palace

Despite what you may have heard, the number of words a picture is worth varies widely. Take the beautiful Afghan girl on a 1985 cover of National Geographic. That photograph's worth sixty, seventy thousand words. Other photos, like, say, a shot of Nadia Bohr's nephew awkwardly attempting - and failing - to score a soccer goal probably is good for 12 or 15.

Now, the photograph that accompanies this story clocks in at 507 words, including the caption . Silverton to Reichl at Jar: "Time to Leave. Now!" 

Silverton to Reichl at Jar "Time to leave. Now!"   

Silverton to Reichl at Jar "Time to leave. Now!"   

The photograph, taken at Jar by award-winning NBC news producer Madeleine Hareringer,  clearly shows an exasperated Nancy Silverton, her patience gone, her annoyance in bloom, and, most alarmingly, her wine red glass removed. 

Look at that photo and you know what Silverton is thinking. 'Fancy Ruth leaning all into Michael, white wine glass right there. Me, I got nothing.' And you can understand why Nancy, at least according to sources, told Ruth to get out. 

Reichl moved into Silverton's Van Ness Palace on January 22 with her husband Michael Singer. From then, up until that photo was taken 41 days later, the two women seemed, in public at least, to get along like a fragrant bouquet of sweet peas. Reichl even won the coveted Nancy Silverton's "Top House Guest of the Month" award in February.  Liz "Go Go" Hong,  a dinner guest at the Van Ness Palace in mid-February, was stunned when she heard that Reichl had been asked to leave. "I had no idea," Go Go said, "They seemed to get along great. Though now that i think about it, Nancy did come down hard on Ruth for making a cake that crumbled."

Van Ness Palace security footage of the kitchen, obtained here, reveals that Reichl made the same Dario Cecchini-inspired olive oil orange cake five times. One, two, three, four, five. Same cake. "No one make the same cake five times with out being ordered to," said renowned pastry chef Sherry Yard.  "I've seen the security tape and Ruth does not look happy."

At one point, after baking the fourth one, Reichl places the plate holding the cake on the edge of the table, allowing Silverton's dog Zeke to gobble most of it. When Silverton returns home at midnight and finds out, she says "She did that on purpose." according to a mouth-reading expert who has seen the tape several times.

But, the final straws were drawn at a Monday night dinner at Jar and a fray became a rip. Reichl hoarded chef's Suzanne Tracht lemongrass chicken, one of Silverton's favorite dishes at Jar. Then there was the debacle with the wine: Reidel Vinum Montrachet glasses of 2008 Marcassin Estate Chardonnay for Ruth; a Cost Plus red/blush wine glass of February 2014 Bastianich Chianti Neo-Classico for Nancy.

A spokeswoman for Reichl would not confirm the writer had been told to leave Los Angeles. "Ruth was gong to leave anyway. She has a novel to promote in New York City. It's called "Delicious'."

Kate Green, Silverton's assistant, tweeted this afternoon on @funwithkate "I hope her book isn't about that cake."