NANCY SILVERTON GIVES RARE "4 NODS" TO GILBERTO CETINA'S MEXICAN SEAFOOD COUNTER "HOLBOX"

When Ruth Reichl tells you to go to a restaurant, go. Just go. She told this reporter Sunday afternoon to go to Holbox and before the sun had set, I was there with Nancy Silverton at a 10-seat counter in the colorful Mercado La Paloma, across the Harbor Freeway from the Coliseum.

Within three minutes, chef Gilberto Cetina, Jr, (Chichen Itza) who named this seafood gem after a car-free island off the north coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, was placing a vibrant green dish (pictured, right) before us. Nancy took a bite of this “aquachile” - Baja Half Moon scallops, lime-serrano-cilantro marinade, and avocado - and started nodding her head in silence. One nod, two.., three and then, slowly – as I watched in wonder – the rare Fourth Nod.  In the 17 years I have been eating with her, Nancy has given the 4 Nods to less than 40 dishes.

When we find out Holbox has been here, at 37th and Grand Ave., for three years, Nancy turns to me and asks “Why the hell haven’t you taken me here before? You gotta wait for Ruth to give the go ahead?’

Fortunately. three tacos show up; octopus, shrimp and yellowtail. They’re excellent. Then a grilled lobster. We eat in silence with some “damn”s and “whoa’s” tossed in.

It’s was such a delight, such a nice surprise. Thank you, Gilberto. Thank you, chef Fatima Juarez.  Thank you, host Maria.

And, oh yeah, thank you, Ruth.