Widespread Protests Breakout As Paris Prepares For Kate Green's Controversial First Visit

Even with security heightened in preparation of Kate Green’s inaugural visit to Paris, protests erupted throughout the City of Light as pro-KG supporters clashed with nationalists who demanded the Los Angeles socialite cancel her trip. At least 14 people were injured Tuesday evening, many by three day-old Poilane croissants thrown by opposing mobs in the 6th arrondissement, French authorities said.

“Go back to Modesto!”, several dozen demonstrators chanted in Paris’ Marais district where Green is expected to be housed in a high security building. They were referring to her hometown, often referred to as the “Paris of the Central Valley”.

Green, most famous for her flamboyant role as Nancy Silverton’s assistant, has repeatedly said in private that France was not her first choice for this highly anticipated trip overseas. Sources close to her, speaking off the record, said Green had tried to get into both Ramadi, Iraq, and Aleppo, Syria, but changed her mind after learning those two wartorn cities were running low on both Raveneau’s Le Clos Chablis and Echezeaux from both DRC and Henri Jayer. This outraged not only Parisians, but French from Alsace to Burgundy.

“Here’s a woman who a few years ago was prolly sipping, no gulping white Zin and wine coolers, a lass who likely considered Bartles and Jaymes wine royalty, a party girl who thought Cheval Blanc lost a match race against Seabiscuit and now she’s yapping about my Echezeaux?, “said Aubert de Villaine, co-director of the Domaine De La Romanee Conti. “It’s people like her that give us snobs a bad name.”

Other protestors who blocked the entrance to several highly regarded Paris bistros - including Le Comptoir, Verjus, Frenchy’s, Septime and the venerable Chez L’Ami Louis - held placards that read “Paris has some museums, too”, in ;reference to Green’s much quoted line “Museums are for tourists, I’m a traveler.”

Despite the widespread protests, many prominent French were looking forward to her visit.

“I can’t wait to see her again,” said Alain Ducasse, 62, a cook from southwest France. “Maybe she can get me into Osteria Mozza.”

Nancy Silverton didn’t get all the fuss.

“Once the customs officials at Charles de Gaulle airport see her passport, I seriously doubt they’ll even let her in the country,” said Chef Silverton “She doesn’t even have a passport photo. What she has is a mug shot.”


L.A. Mayor Garcetti Backs City Council Plan To Officially Rename Homeless People As "Urban Campers"

You’ve seen the tents, from the Figueroa Street financial district to Sunset & Vine, from the bluffs of Santa Monica to the alleys of Koreatown. The tents, tens of thousands of them donated, have replaced cardboard boxes as the “homes” of the homeless. Once banished to the forsaken land known as Skid Row, they are now on view all over town for residents and tourist to glance and ignore.

Well now, hoping to stem the negative connotation that come with the word “homeless”. the mayor of Los Angeles, Gil Garcetti, who has all but announced he is running for president, has backed a City Council proposal to rename those unfortunate folks as“Urban Campers”.

“Who doesn’t like to camp?” said Garcetti, who has clearly never met Nancy Silverton or my sister Jeanine Krikorian Ash. “I think the city will benefit greatly as image is everything in this town. .Besides. if we do rename them, i can boast I got rid of the homeless.”

Several City Council members were vocal in their support of the mayor.

“Some people camp at Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite,” said councilman Duke Feldmeier, whose 1st District includes Skid Row. “Others like a spot off ‘Going To The Sun Road ‘ in Glacier National Park in Montana. Then there are those “Urban Campers” who go for 5th and Wall. To each his own.”

Some thought the new term was a natural progression for these downtrodden.

“They used to be called bums,” said Los Angeles deputy archbishop Rev. Lon M Burns “Then we upgraded them to homeless. Now they are going to be urban campers. Who knows? They way they set up camp near courthouses, in another few years we might start calling them judges.”


Rachel Grisafi Becomes 1st Sicilian American To Win Mozza's Employee Of Month Award, Celebrations In Palermo Turn Violent

What began as a joyous celebration of one of their own - Rachel Grisafi - being honored with the coveted Mozza Employee of the Week Award , turned into a raucous free-for -all as an unruly crowd in Sicily's capital city of Palermo smashed pastry shop windows, stole several thousand cannoli, blocked traffic and took at least two dozen sardines hostage.

Leoluca Orlando, the mayor of Palermo, made a impassioned televised plea for calm, promising to release an unauthorized DVD of Grisafi taking a dip in South of France beach. That seemed to pacify most of the crowd.  It all stemmed from Grisafi winning the prestigious Employee of the Month Award on the Corner, the nearly mythical southwest intersection of Highland and Melrose in Hollywood.

Though "Classified" we have obtained a copy of the report that announced Rachel Grisafi's victory. It follows below:   

Picture this. You’re out on a romantic dinner date, and who walks up to your table but Carmelo Soprano, low-cut and all, big coco brown eyes smiling, earrings big enough for Lebron to shoot hoops through, and she’s holding your magnum of ’98 Gianfranco Soldera Brunello di Montalcino and she says “How’s this two-bit vino rosso working out for you lovers?”

If you know the Osteria, then you know I’m talking about Rachel Grisafi, the newest Mozza Employee of the Month  (aka EOM).

Rachel, aka “Carm”, grew up in – big surprise coming – Philly, and man, does it show.  Story has it when she was 13, she was dating Rocky Balboa. But, the lure of California was strong and Carm headed west.

She joined the Mozza squad on June 25, 2015 and under the leadership of Sarah Clarke, she’s become part of La Famiglia. You could say Mozza is her second famiglia. The first one being La Cosa Nostra in Sicily where authorities detained her briefly this past April . 

“She’s one of the warmest human beings I know,” said Jason Emanuel, a former EOM himself. “Her sense of hospitality is second to none.”

Owen and Sarah have observed something quite unique about her. Her height seems to vary – not anything to do with flats of high heels – but by the size of her trademark hoop earrings.

“It’s kind of bizarre,” said Owen, “But Sarah and I have both noticed that the bigger the hoops, and, as you know, they can be enormous, the taller she appears.”

Still, as much as the praise came in on word was released that Rachel had won the EOM, there was some concern about her floor performance from none other than her Boss of all Bosses, Nancy Silverton.

“The one drawback about Rachel is she is almost too chipper.”

2018-07-11 20_22_31.560.jpg

Bocuse, Guzman, Loiseau, Marchesi, Escoffier Threaten Strike At Tony Gold's After Robuchon Named Chef de Cuisine

A week after Paradise was thrilled to learn Jonathan Gold and Anthony Bourdain were opening a restaurant together called Tony Gold's, the establishment has become embroiled in controversy after the announcement Thursday that Joel Robuchon would be the chef de cuisine.

Four already-hired chefs -  Auguste Escoffier, Fernand Point, Juan "Queso Guzman, Gualtiero Marchesi, Paul Bocuse and Bernard Loiseau  - threatened to walk off the job when they learned Robuchon. who only entered paradise late Sunday night, would be the main man in the heavenly kitchen.

"This is some straight out bullshit, " Escoffier said, throwing a gigantic pan of tournedos Rossini off a Mount Olympus crag.  "I've been up here for, what, 83 years and mashed potato boy been here a few days and he gets the nod?"

Point, formerly of planet Earth's storied La Pyramide in Vienne, France, was also flummoxed. "Joey R is one of the greats, we all know that. But, he really hasn't paid his dues up here.  That's all I'm saying."

As for his part, Guzman, the nearly mystical inventor of the quesadilla, seemed to strike a conciliatory gesture. "Maybe we could rotate. Ya know, like they do in baseball. Koufax one day, then Gibson and so on."

Loiseau, of Earth's Hotel de la Cote d'Or in Saulieu, Burgundy who was praised - and chided - for his water-based sauces, was perplexed. "I guess this means butter time.  Point must be fuckin' thrilled to the point of wood.

Equaling Escoffier in his outrage was Paul Bocuse who is not used to taking orders from anyone, not even French Presidents, said if Robuchon gave him an order he would likely not comply. "When mashed potato boy makes a truffle soup like mine, then maybe'll i'll listen.    

For those coupla dozen Earthlings who don't know yet, last week it was announced the two legends, Jonathan Gold and Anthony Bourdain, had teamed up to open a restaurant named Tony Gold's  There was rejoice from the pearled gates all the way to the summit of Mount Olympus.

A chef de cuisine had not been named, though Bocuse, Guzman's, Point's and Escoffier's name had been bandied about. Then Robuchon, with his 31 stars, moved up and the controversy began. 

Gold and Bourdain, reportedly touring the area in search of Pico Boulevard in Jonathan's Dodge Ram 4-door truck- with the famously well-fed dog Zeke in the truck's bed - were unavailable for comment.

Many local residents were stunned, but felt it was either too soon to comment or out of their field of expertise. . 

"I've been up here for 3,425 years, but leave me out of this one," said Moses, a commandment writer. "You need a sea parted, then get to me, but I don't know jack about the kitchen."  

As for Joel Robuchon himself, well, he wasn't all that thrilled with the new gig. "Look, I just want to cook. As far as I'm concerned, they ought to make Muhammad Ali the main man. At least, everyone would listen to him.

(For the previous article check - http://www.krikorianwrites.com/blog/2018/8/3/v0ozsrggefyha49ye3jtu6f1304x9q


BREAKING NEWS Eater Heaven Says Jonathan Gold and Anthony Bourdain To Open Restaurant Together

In an utterly astounding joint statement that sent the four winds howling from the summit of Mount Olympus through Valhalla and to the very pearled gates of Paradise, Jonathan Gold and Anthony Bourdain announced Friday they would open a restaurant together.

"It's in the early planning stages, but the working name is Tony Gold's," Bourdain told Watts Times mythical Mozza beat reporter Morty Goldstein, Sr. during drinks at Jilly's Saloon. "We both thought Jonathan Bourdain's sounded too fancy."

Gold confirmed the report to Eater Heaven's Farley Elliot VIII and added the place would sit 56,000, just like his cherished Dodger Stadium.  

"The seats will be much nicer than those at the Stadium and the parking lot will be vastly improved with food trucks scattered about," Gold said. "Tony and I have already contacted Enzo Ferrari about handling valet and he actually hired Fangio, Senna and Jim Clark earlier today. It's on.".

As for the food, it will most certainly be worldly. Gold and Bourdain have already talked to a few chefs including, according to sources,  French legends Auguste Escoffier and Fernand Point as well as Juan "Queso" Guzman, the storied East Culiacan-born inventor of the quesadilla. 

Eater Heaven obtained a portion of the interview Goldstein, Sr. did with the two recently arrived North Americans and some of it is published below.  The piece - which will run this Sunday in the Watts Times - is more a conversation between Gold and Bourdain, with Goldstein - wisely - staying mostly quite other than the occasional 'pop' of a shot glass being smashed onto the Jilly's bar top. The audio begins with Jonathan Gold ordering drinks.

Gold – We’ll have the Nebuchadnezzar of 356 B.C. Cheval Blanc.

Bourdain – In shot glasses. Forget those goblets.   

(Sound of wine being opened and poured.)

Bourdain - The 356 B..C. is a great vintage.

Gold - Alexander's birth year.

.They sip.

Bourdain - So, well, how'd you get here, J Gold?

Gold - "Ram."

Bourdain - Really? Sounds uncomfortable.

Gold - Not the animal, Bourdain.   My truck. The Dodge Ram.

Bourdain - Sweet

(A few shot glasses hit the bar top.)

Bourdain - Man, I was shocked and saddened to hear about you.

Gold - As was I you.

Bourdain - But man, the outpouring. The sendoff. Was beautiful, brother. I was watching it on the Big Screen at Perino's.

Gold - Perino's has a big screen?

Bourdain - They brought it in for you.   Last time was Ali-Frazier. The Thrilla in Manila. . Anyway, I was watching, and they had on "live" Ruth and Nancy staying up til dawn’s early light in Umbria talking about you.  Was beautiful.

Gold – I’m a fortunate man to have friends like that.

Bourdain - And Ruth's story. That kicker.  I don't even want to repeat it.

Gold - Don't.

Bourdain - I won't. But, let me ask you something about Nancy and Ruth. They're beautiful. Successful. Kindhearted.  They got it all. But, only one thing makes me wonder about them, especially about Nancy..

Gold - What?

Bourdain -   Nancy's boyfriend. What are they doing with that guy?   Half the time he's going on about the Nickersons, Grape Street, the 60s.

Gold - Ah, Krikorian, he ain't as hard as he lets on. In fact, something rough happen to Laurie and the kids?  Hell, Krikorian, he'd be there in the first wave.

Bourdain - That's comforting.

(The glasses hit the bar top)

Gold – You know, I’m from Rollin’ 60s.  Grew up on 63rd Street.  My ‘hood just about invented the drive-by.

Bourdain – Hmmp. I always associated you more with drive-ins.

They both laugh.  

Bourdain - I got another question for you.  That friend of yours, Margy.  What's up with that slow dance thing of hers?

Gold (laughs) - She was just making the kids and Laurie and me us feel not so down in the room. 

Bourdain - She's not exactly Ginger Rogers.

Gold - Hey, speaking of Ginger, you seen Fred up here?

Bourdain - Last night.  He was dancing and singing “Cheek to Cheek”.  Man, when you hear that opening line up here? Whoa.

Gold – Hey, Anthony, at our restaurant we should have Fred give dance lessons. Like on Friday at happy hour.

Bourdain – I love it. Fred Fridays.

(Shot glasses hit the bar top.)

Bourdain – We’ll probably need a mascot.

Just then, a sweet-looking golden retriever rescue - with rear legs that appear to be made completely of two whole prosciutto di Parma - ambles nearby. Gold stares.

Gold - Zeke? Hey, Zeke! When did you get here?

Zeke -Tuesday. Eh yo, I was at your birthday party Saturday.  Burgers were great! Nabbed me seven.

Bourdain - That’s the dog who stole my cheeseburger the one time I was at a Nancy’s backyard barbecue.

Gold - That claim hardly puts you in an elite unit.  He’ll be working the room

They clink glasses.

Gold - We'll need a sommelier  or two, right TB?

Bourdain - Right, JG.  Hey, how about that kid used to somm at Mozza?  Used to work "The First Supper" up here before he got canned. He knew his grapes.

Gold - Jeremiah Henderson.. Good idea.  

Bourdain -   So it’s Tony Gold’s

Gold - Tony Gold’s it is..

Glasses clink.

Bourdain – And next month when you do the 101 Best Restaurants in Heaven you can rate it #1 and do that disclaimer you do for Nancy and the Mozza Corner.

Glasses clink.

Bourdain – So, Gold, where exactly up here do you think we should locate our restaurant?

Gold – Come on, Bourdain.   They gotta have a Pico Boulevard up here.

- 30

"Heaven, I'm in heaven  

And my heart beats so that I can hardly speak;  

And I seem to find the happiness I seek

When we're out together and dancing cheek to cheek   - Cole Porter

BREAKING UPDATE - The Great One, Joel Robuchon,  will command the kitchen at Tony Gold's. 

on the fabled road to pellicano

on the fabled road to pellicano



"The Hardest Thing I've Ever Done", Daniel Zaragoza, Aka The Fastest Dreamer, Runs The Boston Marathon

Daniel Zaragoza, the famed "Fastest Dreamer", had a game plan for yesterday's Boston Marathon and it was fairly simple; Run 26 miles and 385 yards in Boston one second faster than his stunning debut at the 2017 Los Angeles Marathon which he completed in two hours, 35 minutes and 24 seconds. . 

But, The Gods had plans of their own. Cold, slanting rains and persistent head winds - as well as long Bostonian hills - "slowed" Mozza2Go Go Go's Marathon Man down to 2:48.53, just over 13 minutes off his pace in L.A. when he was the 20th fastest runner overall.. 

"It was the hardest thing I've done in my entire life," Zaragoza said hours after the race. "My game plan was to go at a six minute pace, but that became 6:10. then it became just to finish. Yes, it was tough. Like, really tough."

At mile 23, the Fastest Dreamer came up with a  new goal.  "With three miles to go I just wanted to survive."

He survived and was, after an initial disappointment,  thrilled to have competed in America's premier marathon 

Yuki Kawauchi, 31 of Japan,   2:15.58 of Japan won the race with a time of 2:15.58

Desiree Lindon, 34 of Chula Vista, California, with a time of 2:39.54, became the first American to win women's event in 33 years

Tim Don, the world-record holder in the Ironman triathlon, who broke his neck six months ago, finished in 2:49:42.

Daniel Zaragoza's life was featured in this article published a week ago in the Times of London, the Beirut Daily News, the Stalingrad Sentinel and right here in Krikorian Writes. Here it is.






"The Fastest Dreamer" Daniel Zaragoza, Mozza2Go Go Go's Marathon Man, Is Off To Boston

Last year, while eating at the counter at Mozza2Go, I struck up a conversation with a new employee named Daniel Zaragoza. He told me a little about himself and, when I asked more, he said he was a Dreamer, having come to California  from Mexico at age two or three and then, almost casually, like it was no big deal, added he had recently run his first marathon, the L.A. one, finishing as the 20th fastest racer in the event and fifth fastest American.

I nodded and said said something like "Good for you", all the while thinking to myself, "Yeah, sure you're right. And I play centerfield for the New York Yankees."

Later that night, at home, I, for the hell of it, looked up the results of the 2017 Los Angeles Marathon. Damn, that dreamer wasn't just dreaming. Listed at 20th overall and the fifth American. with a time of 2:35.24.  was Daniel Zaragoza,  aka Mozza2Go Go Go's Marathon Man. The Fastest Dreamer. 

For the stat folks out there, Daniel was only 52 seconds off the time of the woman's professional champion, Hellen Jerkurgat of, big surprise, Kenya and less than. 12 minutes off the fastest American professional marathoner,  John Pickhaver. 

Daniel Zaragoza, 24,  was born in Veracruz, Mexico on October 4, 1993, but he has no memory of there. 

"My earliest memories are of Lincoln Heights, Los Angeles," he said, adding he attended Griffin Avenue Elementary, Florence Nightingale Middle and Abraham Lincoln High School.   At Lincoln High, he ran cross country and track & field in his junior and senior years. Daniel won his league's champion for cross country and made it to the finals for the citywide event.  "As a kid, I didn't understand what it was to be undocumented," he said. 

It wasn't until he was a senior ii high school that he fully understood the ramifications.

"Everyone was talking about universities, but i didn't really have a option," Daniel said. That troubled  him. "I am the only dreamer in my family. All of my cousins and siblings are citizens and so are most of my friends. It's hard sometimes not to be able to talk to someone about it.".

 So he escaped. With a pair of worn out running shoes..

"When I ran, i felt equal. It didn't matter where you came from, how much money you have. It was about who wanted it the most and who would train the hardest."

After high school, Daniel went to East LA College. He received a $500 scholarship which covered his first semester. He couldn't work because he didn't have a social security card, but his parents saved up and paid for the another semester. 

Daniel credits the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals, (DACA) for allowing him to continue his education.

"Thanks to the Dream act, i was able to transfer to Cal State LA. where I ran for the team there with a partial athletic scholarship," said Daniel, who graduated in May, 2017.

Daniel runs and trains with BlacklistLA, the "Run Organization" founded in 2013 that you may have seen at a late night red light near you.  You know, those 200 or 300 crazy folks running through the streets at midnight? All them seemingly smiling and loving this city. They make you want to park your car and join them, even if your not in running shape.  

"BlacklistLA has been an terrifically positive influence for my running," Daniel said as he prepared to leave Mozza2Go and get on a plane Thursday night bound for Boston. "They have supported me and without them I wouldn't be going to Boston" 

Daniel credits BlacklistLA founder Erik Valiente for being a mentor to him. 

"Erik is someone I talk to about my goals and he does his best to guide me."

Now, the soft spoken dreamer - who I didn't believe at first - is all about motivating others.

"My goal is to make my own company.that inspires others to become whoever they want to be. I want to be able to go around the nation and talk to people and give them motivation, specially dreamers. Being a dreamer is very difficult. I used to hide away from it all the while others where out there fighting for my rights. Now that I'm older, i feel more secure about who I am and not afraid to stand up for dreamers, but in my own way."

And those worn out shoes? They been replaced by some $300 Nike Zoom Vaporfly 4%ers.

It's supposed to rain Monday on the Marathon in Boston, but that won't slow this dreamer down.   




Coobook's Nut Nutter With Straus Barista Milk Could Be Banned From World Cookie Cup Pairs Competition

Ever since the invention of cookies in the 7th Century by the Persians, their pairing with milk has been a delight treasured around the world by billions from childhood to the golden years, an almost mystical combination that brings comfort to body and soul, that soothes a troubled day like one's favorite blanket on a cold, rainy night  

But, now,  a cookie/milk combination - the exquisite food shoppe Cookbook's "Nut Nutter Butter" peanut butter cookie with Straus Family Creamery's Barista Milk - is adding another element to its resume;  controversy   The peanut butter cookie - based on a fabled Nancy Silverton recipe - and milk team is so delicious, so extraordinary, so close-your-eyes-and-savor good that a concerted effort is underway to ban the combo from competing in the upcoming World Cookie Cup competition in Damascus.

"The combo of the Not Nutter and the Barista milk is simply, well, this may sound foolish on my part, but it's too good," said Ruth Graves Wakefield  III, granddaughter of the American chef who invented the chocolate chip cookie in 1938 at the Toll House Inn  in Whitman, Massachusetts with Sue Brides.  "They would demolish the competition and that's not good for the event.  Part of the allure, no, most of the allure of the World Cookie Cup is that, though there are favorites, there is never been a shoe-in  There's not a Secretariat in the '73 Belmont   Not Nutter and Barista, (known in the inner circles as NNAB) would win. It's that simple.  The Cup needs drama, needs suspense. Not a juggernaut."   

Last week In a closed testing conducted by McLaren Racing in Woking, outside of London, the Nut Nutter/Barista team scored an unofficial 675, a score long thought to be unattainable  The highest score ever attained at a World Cookie Cup was back in 1961 when a chocolate chocolate chip cookie made by James Beard teamed with bottled Broguiere's milk to score a 612.  At the time it was thought to be an unbreakable mark, the cookie equivalent of DiMaggio's 56 game hitting streak. Not anymore..  

Wednesday afternoon, a spokesperson for Marta Teegan, the owner Cookbook, which as location on Echo Park Avenue and one on Figueroa in Highland Park, said she would file a formal :"letter of intent to compete" with the United Nations in a matter of hours. The UN Security Council is expected to debate and vote on the case Friday.. 





Cookies came to America through the Dutch in New Amsterdam in the late 1620s. The Dutch word "koekje" was Anglicized to "cookie" or cooky

"We're Making It Better", Top 11 Dishes From A Week In London

About 20 years ago, there was a billboard perched off the the 91 Freeway near the Wilmington Avenue off-ramp that read, in big, bold letters, "COMPTON...WE'RE MAKING IT BETTER".

You know a place has to be bad for that to be said.  You'd never see a sign in Holmby Hills proclaiming that.   

London, England is a place you hear a version of that when it comes to the food and restaurants.  Lines like "London's dining scene is so much better now" and the like are common.   For a recent week, Nancy Silverton commandeered a restaurant in the Shoreditch neighborhood called Passo and we had the opportunity to taste and test this theory that the food in London is better than ever.  I don't know how it used to be, but the food, while maybe not on a Los Angeles level, had many outstanding moments. Here is a list of the top 10 dishes of the trip

11. Lamb shawarma at Berber & Q Shawarma Bar on Oxmouth Market.   Everything we had at this small Lebanese restaurant was very tasty, but it was this lamb sandwich - the tender chunks of meat sliced from a  vertical spit, the harissa, the pita fresh and soft -  that keep me coming back. Twice I brought the Mozza crew shawarmas - lamb chicken, beef and cauliflower- from here for their after-shift, midnight meal. 




10. Meat Pies from Fortnum and Mason on PIccadilly - One night after-shift meal was about !50 pound of chicken, beef, rabbit, game and vegetables pies from this multi-floored place that could be described as pretty, especially the candy and jam ground floor. Do not go their hungry. The pastry crust on these hearty pies were thick, but flaky. Their  regular chicken pot pie makes a Swanson's chicken pot pie taste like something that should be doing community service along the Harbor Freeway.

This place has been in business since 1707..  (Not a typo)


9. Original Lehore - This Pakistani kebab house in St John's Wood that bills itself as serving authentic Punjabi cuisine since 1970 was awarded - at least for the first 40 minutes of out visit - as having a level of service that was less attentive and caring than the prison guards at Folsom.

It wasn't even that is was bad service, it was that it didn't exist. Twice I had to get up and ask for a wine opener, and don't get me started on how many times I asked for ice. I stared to wonder if there was ice in Pakistan

But, once the lamb and chicken tikas and the lamb biryani showed up, the service was forgotten and the feast began.  


8. Chicken Cottage , City Road branch - One particular long continuous lunch and dinner shift that last nearly 12 hours left the crew tired, cranky and middle-class starving. I walked to the Old Road underground "Tube", station, dipped in and emerged on the other side of a roundabout where the fast food restaurant Chicken Cottage was dishing it out. I asked "What's the best thing here?"   Fried chicken and grilled chicken, I was told and ordered both.

Back at Passo, the staff greeted my arrival like I was Admiral Lord Nelson returning from the magnificent victory over the Spanish and French fleets at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. (That is a exaggeration, but it was a lot fun to write) 

They loved the chicken, especially the spicy grilled version. What i spend on meat pies, i made up her as the shabang cost less than 10 pounds. 

There are several Chicken Cottages, but this one is at 125 City Rd, Hoxton, London EC1V 1JB, UK

7. Turbot at Brat on Redchurch Street - Brat is kinda like slang for turbot, so it makes sense it was the star of our lunch here last Saturday. Chef Tomos Parry slow-cooks the turbot on the charcoal grill and it comes out succulent with a delicate flavor and a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.  April Bloomfield recommended this place so we knew it was gonna be good.

6. Sweet Potato with Miso Butter at Foley's  - Nancy had built this side dish up to just about mythical levels as she had it on a December trip here. It lived up. We had a memorable times at this Fitzrovia favorite where chef Budgie Montoya blends Asian flavors with European technique. The charred broccoli, the banana leaf roasted sea bass with chili brown butter, the char su lamb, and many other dishes of chef were all very good, but it is that sweet potato that i crave right now.  Special thanks to Budgie who feed us like we had just returned from that Battle of Trafalgar mentioned above.


5. Cheese Plate at St. John  Restaurant, Smithfield  - St. John is one of London's most acclaimed restaurants, Owned by chef Fergus Hendersona and Trevor Gulliver, it is known for offal, those less than glamorous part of animals.  But, St John's variety of the English blue cheese Stilton, here called Stichelton, is, well, just get it if you go here.  It's intense and dense.   It could single-handedly propel the United Kingdom to qualify for the World Cup of Cheese. They wouldn't win, but just getting to compete says a lot.  This Stichelton is also available at Neal's Yard Diary cheese store at Borough Market. That's even where the restaurant gets theirs.        

https://stjohnrestaurant.com/a/restaurants/smithfield                                                                                                                        Here;s the link to Neal's Yard Dairy.          https://www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk/shop-finder/neals-yard-dairy-borough-market-shop/

4. Toastie at Kappacasein next to  Borough Market - Just outside the entrance to that charming collection of food stalls known at Borough Market, is this stand that has a mound of freshly grated Montgomery cheddar cheese on view that people stop and stare at.  It's time for a "toastie", known in America as a grilled cheese sandwich. But, what made me have to have one was the bread, It is from Poilane Bakery in Paris. You could put anything legally classified as food between two slices of Poilane, and I'm in. Here's to Kappacasein and its owner Bill Oglethorpe


3. Cheese Stick at Ottolenghi in Islington - The best cheese stick I have ever had.  Worth taking the Tube to the Heart station and walking nearly a mile just to get it.   I brought one, along with several desserts and some side dishes, paid and left.  A half block away, I took one bite of the cheese stick and stopped cold. I spun around and went back. The cashier lady said "Is something wrong?". I said "Yeah, I need more cheese sticks." There was four left, I took three. I didn't want to be that guy that denied everybody else.


2. Bread Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce, St John - The color alone of the butterscotch sauce at St, John would get this dish in the top 25.  The best bread pudding.  I mean, look at that thing. Should I eat it or put it up at the Tate Modern?




1. Shoulder and Leg of Lamb at Nuala, - For our last meal, a Sunday Roast, our charming host, John Michael Sookias, the man in charge of and responsible for bringing Nancy to London and to Passo, took us to Nuala, a restaurant we walked by everyday and never considered going.  Too  bad.  We walked in and knew right off something good was going on at this place named after a female of Irish mythology. . Above  large open fired hung two glistening legs and shoulders of lamb.. When the leg came to the table, accompanied by a mound of lamb shoulder meat, that might have even been better than the leg, well, it was the best way to end our dining experience in London.




I could have made this list up of solely dishes I ate at Passo, but they were all Nancy Silverton dishes from Mozza served at the pop up at Passo.  I didn't get a chance to have any of the food normally served at Passo, but if they have the good taste to bring Mozza to London, then I'm betting it's, as Det. McNulty says,  spot on.


Yes, they are making it better in London. And, I guess, compared to the old days, they making Compton better, too.